The indigenous Carib people named Carriacou, Kayryouacou, ‘The Land of Reefs’. We anchored in the north of the island at Anse La Roche. First time we dropped the hook this year. Between a reef and a rocky mound.

We dropped the anchor between the beach and an American charter catamaran. Eight people were on the charter boat. And a large blow-up unicorn. Two other catamarans in the little bay were regular cruisers. Quiet, hiding types. The charter boat was there to party – and there’s nothing wrong with that. We are enjoying listening to the turned up American voice. Makes eavesdropping much less of a headache.

We’ve been to this beach before. Three years ago. It was around the same time of year – before the trade winds shift to the north and there are northerly swells to contend with. This becomes standard after November. At this point Anse La Roche becomes a tricky anchorage – until the following hurricane season.

Three years ago, the beach was deserted. Now, a makeshift beach bar has been set up. A homemade marquee with tables and tablecloths blowing in the breeze. From our position, we could just make out the man in the corner. Music played out across the anchorage.

We’d heard about this guy. Someone had written in to complain about him on the Grenada Cruiser’s Facebook group. The beach – while not a nature reserve – is pretty wild. A sign on the beach explains it’s a turtle nesting site.

Anse La Roche is a beautiful place. It was one of our favourite anchorages when we came before – and it’s not gotten any worse. Not just the beach either. We snorkelled the rocky outcrop. Proper healthy coral! Sea fans! Sponges. Indeed, I think Southern Caribbean coral is the prettiest in the Caribbean. I might be dreaming, but to me, there’s just something properly tropical about it. Add a couple of degrees of latitude and it all just goes a bit.. meh. I might be dreaming – but I’m holding to it.

The Americans in the charter boat all went to the beach at sunset. A brave and potentially foolish expedition, since the Caribbean ‘no-see-ums’ make the Borth summer midgies seem like vegetarians. The Americans were prepared though – they doused themselves in mozzie spray before they went.

They returned before midnight to jump off their boat in the pitch darkness. Like a bunch of big kids. Got to love that blow-up unicorn. And the beach guy – who maybe shouldn’t have been there, but it’s not my island so I’m not judging – well, he went home happy.